2004 Clos Jebsal Pinot Gris V.T., Økovin, Zind Humbrecht Alsace

95p/WineAdvocate: "represents a break after 11 consecutive vintages of SGN. The vintner should count him- or herself lucky who gets a break like this! An amazing concentration of apricot nectar, lemon, marzipan, and honey is allied to pungent buckwheat and an explosively perfumed bouquet of flowers in a dazzling aromatic display that made me think: Tokay - Tokaji? ... Not terribly sweet (at 68 grams residual sugar) nor at all warm (14% alcohol), this penetrates with take-no-prisoners length, and should be worth returning to at any time over the next two decades. Furthermore, for all of its remarkable virtues, it's easier to appreciate this as wine and to imagine its evolution than is the case with many of its record-setting S.G.N. From the site that generally buds earliest but gets picked latest (its deep marl cools the roots down, forcing the grapes to take their time). Olivier Humbrecht compares his 2004 with 1992. These were the two most copious vintages of recent times, delivering truly dry wines with quite high acidity. Although he characterized 2004 as more precocious than 2005, Humbrecht kept harvesting through early November, insisting that this was only possible due to his stringent, biodynamic viticultural practices and consequent generally healthy fruit. Humbrecht insists too that he did not seek botrytis, as rain was rendering noble rot nearly impossible. But it certainly seems sometimes as if botrytis sought out him! Overall, in fact, I have never tasted such a wide rage of quality nor so many unusually distinctive wines at this address as those of 2004."